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FAQ

Most frequent questions and answers

Collar –

Although we may switch them to our gear after they arrive, for safety reasons all dogs must be brought in on a well-fitting, flat buckle or martingale style collar. On a flat buckle collars you should not be able to fit more than two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck, on martingale collars you should be able to pull the collar tight without the two metal connector rings touching. This is so the dog cannot slip out of the collar during hand-off. No choke chains or other training collars without a backup collar of the types listed above. Absolutely no harnesses unless necessary for medical reasons (ie. collapsed or sensitive tracheas).

Leash – 

Four to six foot nylon, leather, or biothane leash. Remove any attachments (waste bags, etc.) before drop-off. Please no rope style leashes, leashes with rubber coverings on the handle, or leashes with handles. You will need extra leashes for tethering after go-home anyway, so please order one of the above mentioned before they arrive for training. Absolutely no flexi (retractable) or bungee style leashes. 

Food – 

Bring enough food to last the duration of their stay. Food can be in the original bag or in a separate food container. Please also bring pet’s measuring cup. Measuring cup must be standardized sizes such as ones that are used for baking, they cannot be unspecific sizes like drinking cups, coffee mugs, reused food containers, scoops included with food container, etc. If they do not currently have their food accurately measured, purchase a measuring cup and begin measuring their food before they come for training. This is for health purposes as well as for getting them used to a scheduled feeding routine that will be used during training. 

Treats – 

Treats are not necessary to bring as we can supply them during training, however if your pet is picky or has allergies it is recommended to bring some of their favorite treats. Recommended treats for training are ones which are soft, smaller than a penny in diameter (or can be easily broken apart), and don’t crumble easily.

Toys –

Toys are not necessary to bring as we can supply them during training, however if your pet has a favorite toy or toys you may bring them with. The best toys to use are ones which can be played with during training for example, tug toys and balls. 

Chews –

If your dog has chew treats or toys you may bring them with. Please no non-edible chews if your dog will eat pieces off of them. Chews must be size-appropriate for the dog so as to not be a choking hazard. No rawhides as they are a potential choking or blockage hazard.

Blankets –

Feel free to bring blankets or crate padding for your dog’s stay. They appreciate the comfort and the smell of home. However, if your dog chews bedding please do not bring any, as it can be a choking and strangulation hazard.

Muzzle – 

Any dog who has shown aggression or extreme fearfulness is required to be brought in on a muzzle – even if they do not have a bite history. Muzzles must be of metal or hard plastic (not soft plastic like Baskervilles), and must fit the dog so as to allow them to pant and not rub against the sides of their face. Extra security measures such as back-up collars attached to the muzzle are required if the muzzle is of a style which only has one strap (these are easy for the dog to slip off over their ears when they are most needed). Dog must be conditioned to wearing the muzzle before they come, this means they must be comfortable sleeping and walking in the muzzle without attempting to take it off, and must allow it to be put back on easily. Please contact for more help on this if you are unsure how to do this, you will likely have more than a month wait before their stay and this is plenty of time to order and condition your dog to a muzzle. Please refer to this website for sizing, purchasing, and conditioning guides.

Dogs Over Four Months of Age:

  • Rabies
  • Bordetella (Kennel Cough)
  • DHPP (Includes):
    • Distemper
    • Adenovirus (Hepatitis)
    • Parainfluenza
    • Parvovirus
  • Leptospirosis (May have been included with above combination vaccine as DHLPP rather than DHPP)
  • Negative Fecal Test (Ran within six months of dog’s boarding)
  • Highly Recommended:
    • Heartworm Preventative (Monthly)
    • Flea Preventative (Monthly)

Dogs Under Four Months of Age:

  • Bordetella
  • DHPP (First round in series):
    • Distemper (May have had first vaccine with breeder)
    • Adenovirus (Hepatitis)
    • Parainfluenza
    • Parvovirus (May have had first vaccine with breeder)
  • Leptospirosis (May have been included with above combination vaccine as DHLPP rather than DHPP)
  • Negative Fecal Test
  • Highly Recommended:
  • Heartworm Preventative (Monthly)
  • Flea Preventative (Monthly)

Below are the list of supplies that we recommend. Included are which programs they are suggested for, as well as which are program requirements to purchase before go-home. You do not need every item listed under each heading, just which are most relevant to your situation. 

Crate (Required for All Programs)

  • Wire Crate – Best option for most dogs
  • Plastic Crate – Best option for separation anxiety or dogs who will use the bathroom in their crate.
  • RuffLand – Most affordable option for car travel, and dogs who escape from or injure themselves in crates.
  • Gunner Kennels – Best option for car travel.

Exercise Pen (Recommended for Puppy Foundations, General Manners, and Better Behavior)

  • Four Foot – For medium or large sized dogs.
  • Two Foot – For small sized dogs.

Tethers (Required for All Programs)

  • Three Foot Tether
  • Eye Hook – For large size or strong dogs.

Long Line (Required for Puppy Foundations, Off-Leash Freedom, and Reactivity Rehab)

  • Fifteen Foot – For puppies or reactive dogs.
  • Thirty Foot – For off-leash preparation in fields/parks. 
  • Retractable – For puppies and off-leash preparation on hikes.

Bed (Required for All Programs)

  • Kuranda – Preferred option.
  • Kuranda Aluminum – Best option for destructive dogs.
  • Square Bed – Most affordable option.
  • Mat – Generally preferred by large, long-haired, or short-faced breeds prone to overheating.

Treat Pouch/Vest (Required for All Programs)

  • Treat Pouch – Most affordable option.
  • Training Jacket – Good option for dogs who prefer toy rewards, for cold weather, or for dresses/skirts/leggings with no pockets. Not required!
  • Vest – Good option for dogs who prefer toy rewards, for warm weather, or for dresses/skirts/leggings with no pockets. Not required!

Treat Jar (Required for Puppy Foundations, General Manners, and Better Behavior)

  • Mason Jar – Most affordable option.

Toys (Required for All Programs if Dog is Toy Motivated)

  • Tug Toy – For dogs who prefer tug as a reward, struggle with drop-it, or bite when excited.
  • Leather Toy – For building desire to play tug in dogs who prefer chase.
  • Ball on Rope – For dogs who prefer fetch as a reward.
  • Ball With Handle – For dogs who prefer fetch as a reward and owners with sensitive hands.
  • Flirt Pole – For dogs who prefer chase as reward, or for dogs with strong prey drive.

Grooming Tools (Required for Puppy Foundations and General Manners, Recommended for All Programs)

  • Nail Clippers – For all dogs.
  • Tooth Brush – For all dogs.
  • Tooth Paste – For all dogs.
  • Slicker Brush – For medium or long-haired dogs. IE. Huskies, Australian Cattle Dogs, Border Collies, Wire Hair Terries, etc.
  • Bristle Brush – For short-haired dogs. IE. American Pit Bull Terriers, Bulldogs, Hound Dogs, etc.
  • Comb – For thick or curly-coated dogs. IE. Huskies, Australian Cattle Dogs, Border Collies, Poodles and poodle mixes, etc.
  • Scissors – For long-haired dogs or dogs prone to matting. IE. Australian Shepherds, Yorkshire Terriers, Poodle mixes, etc.

Camera (Recommended for Puppy Foundations, General Manners, and Better Behavior, Required for Housebreaking, Destructive, or Separation Anxiety Issues)

  • Indoor Camera – For dogs who will go the the bathroom or destroy things inside, for dogs who bark when left alone, for dogs who struggle to settle in the crate.
  • Outdoor Camera – For dogs who dig or destroy things outside, for dogs who bark in the yard, for dogs who attempt to escape yard.

Enrichment Supplies (Recommended for Destructive or Over-Excited Dogs, or Separation Anxiety Issues, Highly Recommended for Owners with Limited Time/Interest for “Extra-Curricular” Dog Training)

  • Kongs – For all dogs, make sure size is accurate for your dog.
  • Yak Chew – For all dogs, make sure size is accurate for your dog.
  • Dental Chew – For all dogs, make sure size is accurate for your dog.
  • Bully Sticks – For all dogs.
  • Tracheas – For all dogs.
  • Treat and Train – For dogs with separation anxiety.
  • Carpet Mill – For dogs who do not get adequately tired by walks and have high toy or food drive. More affordable  option, but may not be best for dogs who lack confidence.
  • Slat Mill – For dogs who do not get adequately tired by walks and have high toy or food drive. More expensive  option, but may be  best for dogs who lack confidence.
  • DogPacer – For dogs who do not get adequately tired by walks and have low toy/food drive.

Confidence Building/Proofing Supplies (Highly Recommended for Puppy Foundations, Off-Leash Freedom, and Better Behavior Programs, Recommended for Any Owner with Interest in “Extra-Curricular” Dog Training)

  • Weight Pull – For anxious dogs. Great low-risk/high-reward activity for joint health and physical fitness.
  • Nose Work – For anxious dogs or dogs with separation anxiety.
  • Body Awareness – For anxious dogs. Great activity for injury prevention, physical fitness, and preparation for advanced behaviors.
  • Noise Playlist – For noise-sensitive dogs and puppy socialization.
  • Plastic Tarp – For anxious dogs, puppy socialization, and proofing behaviors.
  • Baby Pool – For puppy socialization. Fill with empty water bottles or milk jugs and encourage puppy to play or rummage around for treats.
  • Target Stick – For anxious dogs. Great tool for teaching more advanced behaviors.
  • Unspecific Items for Nervous or Aggressive Dogs and Puppy Socialization:
    • Hats
    • Wigs
    • Heavy Coat with Hood
    • Heavy Boots
    • Walker/Cane/Wheelchair
    • Skateboard/Bike/Scooter
    • Stroller
    • Costume Masks
    • Baby Dolls

There are a few things you can do to help your dog get the most out of training, these are especially important for dogs who tend to struggle when left with new people. 

Crate Training:

For safety reasons, your dog has to be crated when we are out of the house, sleeping, or working with aggressive dogs. If your dog is not used to being in a crate then not only is their training delayed, but so is the training of other dogs in our care. This is because we have to devote our initial training sessions to being comfortable in the crate, which is not the best use of our time and may not even be related to the issue the dog is in for.

It also makes your dog more likely to injure themselves in their crate, as they may panic if their first time in one is with us. This means we cannot leave the house or work fully with other clients until your dog is comfortable. If your dog cannot sleep through the night in a crate, neither can we, and just like you or anybody else, the quality of our work suffers when we are sleep-deprived.

So please, for the safety of your dog, the consideration of our other clients, and the sum you are paying for our time – crate train your dog. If this is a particular struggle for your dog, please reach out so we can work you through the steps of training prior to their stay.

Hand Feeding:

For most dogs, this is not an issue, however we often run into dogs who do not know how to “work” for food or will only respond to exceptionally high-value treats like steak. We don’t mind teaching dogs to follow food, or transition them from high-value treats to regular kibble, but these processes take time and can take days away from our ability to work on your final goals.

So, if you would like your dog to get the most out of their training time, we recommend you start to feed them most of their meals out of your hand. If they do not want to eat a meal from your hand, skip that meal and try again at the next feeding time. Most dogs don’t even take a full day to come around. If they have gone 24 hours and still refuse to eat from your hand, you can give them a small meal in a bowl and then try again at the next feeding time.

If they are doing well, you can add in telling them “good” or “yes” before presenting the food to them and having them take a few steps after your hand before releasing their food. 

If your dog is currently free fed (not on a set feeding schedule), this is the time to switch them to a set schedule! This will allow you to notice any symptoms of potential health issues like poor appetite before they become major issues. Along with this, almost every free-fed dog we see is overweight or obese by three years old, before you assume your dog is fine, look at a body condition score chart and make a more accurate assessment. Scheduled and measured feeding times will allow you to adjust meal sizes accordingly. 

Maintain or Reach Healthy Body Condition:

Dogs who are overweight or underweight can suffer from additional health issues such as joint pain, low energy, irritability, and breathing difficulty. As such the training we do with them may be limited or delayed as the dog is unable to perform to the best of their abilities. 

In addition to this, behavioral issues such as aggression or anxiety can be exacerbated by discomfort and poor nutrition. Training will make no or little difference if your dog’s behavior issue is caused by excessive or insufficient calorie intake. Some medical problems which also cause behavior issues can contribute to difficulty in keeping weight on or off, as such these should be ruled out with your vet if you are struggling to maintain your dog at a healthy weight.

Finally animals that are over or underweight are at increased risk of injury or death. In order to prevent the liability of having such animals in our care, we may postpone training until your dog has achieved a healthy body condition.

Yes. You can split your payment into three or four monthly payments.

First payment due as deposit, following payments due monthly from date of first deposit. 

Please contact us at alysarothfuss@crimsondogranch.com to set up details for payment plan. You can still reserve your spot and fill out forms, just select “Pay Later” when scheduling your dog’s stay and you will not be charged at the time of booking and we will adjust invoice to reflect agreed payment plan before charging your card. 

What exactly your dog learns depends on the goals you have for them, and of course their individual rate of learning. Below are the general concepts we cover for each program.

Puppy Foundations

Our focus here is teaching young dogs how to interact with the world around them, and set them up to be eager learners for the rest of their life. As such they learn:

  • Marker and Release Words (Basically, teaching them how to know they are correct even when food isn’t right in front of their eyes and introducing them to the idea of waiting for permission).
  • Follow a Lure (Makes teaching new behaviors a breeze!)
  • Rules of Play
  • Sit for Attention
  • Leave Food
  • Confidence Around Sounds, Objects, and Sensations
  • Polite Interaction with People and Dogs and the Ability to Ignore New People and Dogs
  • Come when Called
  • Beginnings of Polite Leash Walking
  • Eye Contact
  • Tolerance for Grooming/Vet Checks
  • Wait at Boundaries

General Manners

This program covers much of the same as the puppy foundations program, but as the dogs are a bit older we can advance upon some of the earlier skills and learn new ones such as:

  • Verbal Cues – Sit, Down, Place, Come, Leave-It, Drop-It, and Heel
  • Stays for Longer Periods
  • Stays Around Distractions
  • Leash Pressure
  • Voluntary Calmness

Off-Leash Freedom

This program covers most of the above two programs, the main focus here is bringing these skills to an advanced level and including a few off-leash specific such as:

  • Stays from a Distance
  • Automatic Leave-Its with Food, Objects, People, and Animals
  • Automatic Waits at Corners and Street Crossings
  • Regular, Voluntary Check-Ins
  • Drop On Recall
  • Off-Leash Heel
  • E-Collar Conditioning

Reactivity Rehab

The focus of this program isn’t about flashy obedience or house manners, but rather on a specific issue that tends to be a major cause of stress for many dogs and owners alike. We may not cover many specific obedience cues, as we would rather spend our time teaching more relevant skills such as:

  • Leash Pressure
  • Heel
  • Come
  • Moving Away from Stressors/Distractions
  • Trust in your Handler
  • Settling when Excited
  • Impulse Control

Better Behavior

This program covers a wide range of issues, so what exactly we cover depends on what exactly your dog is struggling with. In general it can be assumed we will work on:

  • Marker Words
  • Waiting at Boundaries
  • Settling when Asked
  • Settling Voluntarily
  • Place
  • Come
  • Moving Away from or Staying in the Prescence of a Stressor
  • Leash Pressure
  • E-collar Conditioning
  • Other, Behavior Specific Cues

If you have done any prior research on dog training you have probably heard all sorts of buzz words describing how to train and what to look for in a trainer. You may even have worked with a trainer before and found that their methodology didn’t feel right, or didn’t fit well with your dog’s needs. So, of course you want to know what methods will be used with your dog before they come here. 

The real answer is it depends, our methods are whatever is most effective, most enjoyable, and least stressful for your dog. They will not be “dominated” or punished into compliance, nor will they be allowed to do whatever rude or downright dangerous behavior they please with no consequence. If you feel your dog needs a heavy hand to convince them of their place, you aren’t going to find that here. If you want your dog who doesn’t like treats, but does like squirrels, to be trained to come away from small animals without having to tell them “no”, we probably aren’t the trainer for you either. 

We may be a good match if any of the below sound sensible to you:

  • Dogs should be taught new behaviors using whichever rewards they most enjoy.
  • Some dogs prefer food, some prefer toys, some prefer affection, and some are very picky. A good trainer should be able to work with, or find out, whatever most motivates the dog.
  • Just like people, dogs have individual learning styles. A good trainer should be able to teach concepts and behaviors in different ways to match each dog’s individual learning style.
  • A well-behaved, confident, and calm dog is more than just a set of obedience commands.
  • Obedience commands need to be tested in many different situations before they can truly be considered reliable.
  • Clear expectations, consistent rules, and a predictable routine lower stress and contribute to a healthy state of mind.
  • For a dog to be truly content they need to be worked both physically and mentally, have a balance of play and calm, get regular social and alone time, be provided with outlets for their natural drives, and must be free of pain or discomfort.
  • Lasting changes in behavior require regular upkeep, and bad habits take time to replace with good ones.
  • A dog’s environment, and how they are handled by their owners can impact their behavior (good or bad) more than any amount of training could ever change.
  • Genetics and innate personality affect how a dog behaves and how likely (or even possible) it is to change a certain behavior.
  • Communication is a two-way street, and we should understand how to talk with our dogs just as much as we expect them to understand how to talk with us.
  • Dogs communicate differently than people, and can benefit from physical information in ways that we may not.
  • Restricting a dog’s freedom is more cruel than telling them no.
  • We get paid for our hard work, and praise our children for their hard-earned success, so we should do the same for our dogs. 

If you read through all that and came to the conclusion that it is quite a logical and understandable approach to training and living with your dog, then you should be on board with our methodology. If you are surprised and disappointed to learn that our training may involve the use of remote collars and prong collars right alongside our treat pouch and tug toys, then you may want to reach out for more information on how we use these tools before you add us to your “do not use” list.

Any training tools we use are done so with the dog’s best interest in mind – they must be fair and they must be beneficial or we would not be using them at all. Before a dog learns the e-collar, they learn any training cues we use with food or toys. Then they learn the e-collar sensation in the same way – cue (e-collar stim) happens, they do the behavior, e-collar stim turns off, and treat appears. We’ll have you feel it on yourself to believe it, but the e-collar starts at such a low level it can’t be described at anything more than a bit of a tingle. Basically, the dog learns that the goal of the e-collar is to turn it off so they earn their reward. Depending on the behaviors we are trying to change with it, we may increase the level as their understanding progresses in order to discourage dangerous habits or break through an all-consuming focus to guide them toward a better choice, but most of all we want to be fair and we always want the dog to be a willing participant. 

This all being said, our training system is hardly based around any specific tool. You will find us often sending pups home on training collars as they can make a world of difference in maintaining consistency at home and keeping your communication clear, but we will never recommend any aversive tool being your main method of training. All owners are instructed in how to practice with rewards and praise, and taught the importance of meeting your dog’s mental and physical needs to keep the peace and joy at home.

We train out of our home in Carlton, Oregon, so unless your dog is accompanying us on a walk or an outing into town – they are safe inside our house! 

Because many of the dogs we get for training are not friendly with other dogs, can be destructive, or are not housebroken – they do not get any unsupervised loose time. This is for their own safety as well as the safety of other pets in the home. When working other dogs inside we like to use this as a chance to practice hanging out in place.

When out of the house  or when working potentially aggressive dogs, your pup will be crated with water, soft bedding, and a chew toy (if applicable) or they will be in one of our four foot tall, secured, indoor exercise pens with water, a bed, and toys (as long as they are not escape artists).

Every dog is different and the weather affects when we choose our walks and dog social time, so no two days will look exactly alike, however we do follow a general routine. Some things do not occur every day (like our outings) and some are dependent on how far along in training the dog is.

AM:

Out to Potty – Practice waiting to be released from the crate and waiting for permission to go outside.

Walks – Depending on how far along in training they are, this may be a short walk around the block to practice low-distraction leash skills, or it may be a longer trip to the park to practice recalls and stays around distractions on a long-line.

Inside Practice for Breakfast – What we work on depends on the dog’s needs and their owner’s goals. Usually running through all the basic obedience cues, unless we have a specific behavior issue we are tackling in which case that takes priority or for puppies, we may focus on foundation skills and socialization over obedience drills.

Duration/Calm Time: While another dog works, emails are being answered, or owner homework is being prepared they practice staying in their beds or learning to self-settle when not given a specific task or attention.

Mid-Day:

Social Time – Friendly dogs get to play and practice recalls away from other dogs. Non-friendly dogs get controlled interactions to build their tolerance of other dogs around them. 

Outings – We may make a trip to a dog-friendly store, or to a café patio to practice neutral responses to distractions and test our obedience cues.

Play – One-on-one play to teach toy-motivated dogs how to work for toys and the polite rules of play.

PM

Greeting Manners – The house starts to get busier at this time, so we will usually use it as an opportunity to practice politely greeting guests, or just ignoring them depending on the dog’s temperament. 

Inside Practice for Dinner: What we work on depends on the dog’s needs and their owner’s goals. Usually running through all the basic obedience cues, unless we have a specific behavior issue we are tackling in which case that takes priority or for puppies, we may focus on foundation skills and socialization over obedience drills.

Hang Out Time – To make their training experience more realistic, we introduce more “free” time as they get farther along in training and can be trusted to make better decisions. This means they are not given a specific task or tethered like during duration/calm time practice. This lets us see where their training still needs some work, and what owners should be aware of to watch for when they start to get more free time at home.

Out to Potty – Practice waiting for permission to go outside.

Sleep – Back in crate for the night.

The maximum number of board and trains we take at once is three, this ensures that we have plenty of time to get one-on-one training sessions with each pup throughout the day. 

We also offer boarding for returning clients, so we occasionally have one or two additional dogs who may get additional walks or training sessions, or may just be with us for some hangout and play time while their owners are out of town. During busy boarding periods like the holidays, we usually limit the number of board and trains to one, if we have any at all. This is so that we can meet the needs of our boarders, without neglecting our training programs.

Every so often we get a foster dog as well, because their training has no set deadline we are able to adjust their schedule as needed depending on our total amount of boarders and board and trains.

More than anything, we want all of our clients to be successful. Training can make a world of difference in a dog’s behavior, but they are still animals with minds of their own and continued success involves a lot more than just a few obedience cues. This is why we offer life-long follow up support and encourage regular check-ins after a dog goes home. If your dog is struggling at any point after training, contact us for another lesson. 

Often times the solution is as simple as making a few tweaks in how you hold the leash, or how you talk to the dog. Sometimes we need to add or take away a few parts of their daily routine, either because they aren’t getting all their needs met or they are getting too much time in overstimulating situations. 

That being said, genetics play just as big a role in your dog’s behavior as training does. Some behaviors will never go away completely, no matter how hard or what anyone tries. In these cases management is the best and safest option (for example, most dogs that are really fixated on killing your cat, cannot ever be convinced to relax and be friends when you aren’t around and kitty decides to jump on their head). If all their needs are being met, and the situation is easy for you to maintain, we are happy to show you how to manage their environment to lower the risk of accidents and prevent problem behaviors. 

However, in some cases, management is not a realistic solution either. Busy homes with kids running around and opening doors or families with multiple pets and limited time and space tend to struggle with managing behavior problems or meeting the needs of high maintenance pups. This is not due to lack of care, effort, or heartache, but rather due to an unfortunate mismatch of personalities and lifestyles. In these cases, the best option may be the hardest one – that is, finding your dog a home where their natural drives and their environment are not in such conflict. We understand that this is a painful decision to make, and we will never shame you for it. We will support you along the way, search for a loving and suitable home with you, and if needed, take your dog in as a foster while they wait for their perfect match.